The timeless classics confirmed their runway relevance, with the red lip and black, smoky eye still thriving at the Fall/Winter 2019-2020 shows. But the season brought more daring, arty creations with it, particular emphasis being placed on the eyes. Otherworldly eyelashes and teddy girl liner announced themselves as key trends, while the glowy complexions of last season reached new dimensions. These are the makeup trends that dominated the runways in winter 2020 beauty trends.
Eyes took the spotlight in Fall/Winter 2019-2020, with particular emphasis placed on the lashes. They were the subject of true artistic creation, exaggerated with blunt Sixties-style kohl lines at Christian Dior. “It’s all about Teddy girls…British, tough girls,” explained Peter Philips. At Giambattista Valli, Val Garland imagined a more chromatic, razor-like regard, and at Brandon Maxwell, the lashes were layered with thick coats of mascara for a very wearable look. There’s one golden rule valued by the makeup artists backstage: keep the complexion and lips as natural as possible.
Eyebrows were a binary matter on the runways – either bold and overstated or erased completely. However, the effect was the same. Framing the regard, makeup artists (Pat McGrath comes to mind) enhanced the beauty looks. At Prada, the eyebrows were bleached, for a strange, otherworldly look, baptized “dark romance”, while the exaggerated brows at Chanel brought architectural definition the faces of the models.
The disco look
We are witnessing a glitter renaissance. This time, it’s taking a Saturday Night Fever shape, in striking shades as seen at Rodarte or worn like speckled confetti on the lids of the models at Dries Van Noten. In tune with the 1970s clubbing theme, Halpern plastered the lids in gold for a pure couture look.
The post-facial glow
Newcomers to the backstage of the runways, skincare experts gave express facial massages to the models, before handing them over to the makeup teams, for a baby-fresh glow. This development saw makeup take a back seat in some cases – a sign that the natural beauty boom is making its comeback.
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The red lip
The statement red lip is a failsafe trick for simple sophistication. This staple weapon in the art of sensuality was utilized by many of the makeup artists this season. As for colour, vibrant carmine shades were seen, as well as deep burgundies; as for texture, press lips with powder for an ultra-matte effect, or coat with a lick of gloss. One thing is sure: high pigment is the key.
The punk look
Tendance make-up de l’automne-hiver 2019-2020: le regard noir punk
Makeup artists did not hold back on eyeliner backstage, reimagining the timeless cat eye with more dramatic accents. Bold lines were evocative of the fearless punk rock mentality.
The smoky eye
While past seasons have played with colour, makeup artists breathed new life into the black smoky eye in Fall/Winter 2019-2020, expertly blending classic chic and rock-chick. Enhanced with a flick of kohl liner, the complexion was left natural and the hair tied back, for double the impact.
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